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Destination: Yosemite Valley, CA
More Info: I can't begin to encompass what Yosemite has to offer in a short description. Climbers, hikers, campers, bird watchers, horse back riders, photographers and anybody with two legs, wheels or eyes alike have found this gem to be a wealth beyond compare. The granite walls and spires are too vast to be nailed down by words. My goal here is to give you a rough idea what to expect, some good books on Yosemite and some links to other sites dedicated to the valley. My hand fulls of visits to the valley have left me awe inspired and I'll often watch my internal movies play climbs over and over - always excited to go back.
The climbing in Yosemite is an interesting experience to ponder. The easy routes are usually lower angle and pretty dirty. The routes get steeper and harder, requiring knowledge of technique almost specific to yosemite. But you can get in over your head really easy because many of the guidebook ratings are 1960-1970s ratings, significantly more challenging than today's standards. Yosemite routes are unique and the beginner leader has a tough learning curve ahead. The average moderate route (5.4-5.8) will have varied types of climbing; expect plenty of crack climbing, lay-backing, and face climbing. Protection is almost always natural - whether you're finding nut placements, cams or slinging chalk-stones. The rare bolt might find it's way on a long runout section or at a belay, not to mention fixed pitons or rusting 1/4" bolts. If you see "O.W." in the guidebook - it means off width: bring a long sleeve shirt, high top climbing shoes, long pants, know how to vomit and continue climbing. Off-width cracks are too wide to use hand jams and too narrow to climb inside to chimney.
The classic mistake is the beginner running up to a valley 5.8 that has a section of off width crack climbing and taking off. Realizing that they have no idea how to get in, around or any way to protect the wide section, problems pop up quick. Luckily it's pretty hard to fall out of a crack once you're all the way in. Unluckily it's also hard to move up. Some climbers out there spend there climbing career hunting down the most gruesome off width cracks imaginable. These people need help, but they're dangerous and crafty - hooking unsuspecting climbers into their snare and dragging them along. Believe it or not there is still loose rock on well travelled routes. On my last trip up Royal Arches, I pulled on a block the size of a computer monitor that moved too much for my liking. Let your partner know when you see stuff that shouldn't be pulled on. How to get down from Royal Arches - http://www.tradgirl.com/rc/faq4.htm#ndg.
On that note, helmets are the norm in Yosemite. Well, at least with me they are. I don't care if it's 5.easy - I've seen more rock and gear flying past me than I'd care to mention. Bouldering in Yosemite - I've spent more time bouldering in the valley than I have on routes. Well, close any ways. Rest days usually end up an excuse to use the boulder pad for more than napping on. More and more climbers are showing up exclusively to boulder in Yosemite. The Camp 4 boulders are the most well known and have some of the most spectacular high-balls anywhere. There are tons of moderate problems to be worked and once you're 10 feet off the ground on a slab that ends in ankle snapping talus, you'll understand the real nature of camp4 bouldering. I won't even begin to go into the different areas for bouldering as there are too many - and if you don't mind a hike - many more that are undiscovered. Gear: standard trad rack for me.
Stuff I bring:
How and where to sleep - You'll most likely need reservations if you want to car camp - and there is a 7 day limit to the number of days you can camp in Yosemite Valley. Of course you can register again under somebody else's name... but I'm not suggesting you do that. There's a 30 day limit to Yosemite National Park. The camp sites are pretty amazing and worth a try if you know when you're going and get reservations well in advance. Reservations may be made between 7AM to 7PM Pacific time by calling 800-436-PARK (7275). (International callers use 301-722-1257; TDD 888-530-9796.) Mail-in reservations should be addressed to: NPRS On-line reservations and information are available at http://reservations.nps.gov/ Camp 4 or Sunnyside Campground is the walk-in campsite that has been the home to climbers for generations. The kiosk opens at 8am - and people start lining up early to get tent tags. Don't park in the camp 4 parking lot without your car tag or you'll get a ticket. The kiosk is also a great place to find used gear postings or partners needed posts. |
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